Beta Blog

Dating A Climber: 10 Things You Need to Know

Posted by Clay Chaszeyka on Jan 15, 2018 1:58:32 PM

If you're looking for a big spender, you might want to reconsider starting a serious relationship with a climber. Oh, he'll spend big, alright—on climbing gear—leaving little to spend on anything else if he's as genuinely passionate as most serious climbers are! If you're into a well-groomed guy, you should probably pass on a climber. Dirty hair, crumpled shirt, and that musky smell of sweat after a climb are pretty standard. That won't change.

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Conservation Versus Safety: The Debate

Posted by Clay Chaszeyka on Dec 21, 2017 6:28:59 PM

Have you ever wondered why someone doesn't just make a route safer by drilling in another bolt? Or why some routes are mixed sport and trad? And why in particular climbing areas, white chalk is not allowed? Why do other climbers at the crag give you side-eye or a death stare when you turn on your tunes?

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The Fast and Dirty: 20-Minute Training for Climbers

Posted by Matt Lloyd on Nov 30, 2017 5:45:59 PM

It’s not what you do today that counts. It’s what you do all year, day in and day out, that does. Athletically we are the sum of the work we do. As a coach, I often see people come into the gym and destroy themselves in a 2-hour suffer-fest workout, only to not come back in a week or more. Unfortunately, this type of intermittent training has little value concerning performance. I'm not saying it doesn't have any value, but instead, it's an inefficient use of your time.

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Shoe Review: Altura by Butora

Posted by Dave Anderson on Nov 28, 2017 3:11:42 PM

Today there are hundreds of models of climbing shoes to choose from. But if you are looking for a climbing shoe that can smear, edge, climb cracks, and be comfortable enough to wear all day on multi-pitch routes, your options can be counted on one hand. A trad climbing shoe also needs to be designed and constructed to take the abuse of being frequently jammed into cracks of various sizes. The Altura by Butora fulfills all of these criteria and is, in my opinion, the best crack climbing shoe available today.

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A Day in LCC

Posted by Nick Rothenbush on Nov 14, 2017 1:23:51 PM

A crisp morning in Salt Lake City with a projected high of 45 degrees typically means only one thing to climbing locals, a day in LCC. This is the acronym the community has assigned one of the city’s outstanding nearby crags known as Little Cottonwood Canyon. Although it may not be considered a world-class destination, it is by no means the worst place to have as a backyard playground. An extensive climbing tradition, forged by some of history’s boldest first ascensionists, run-out slabs, and splitters cracks make the canyon a perfect training ground for aspiring granite ninjas.

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To The Bat Cave

Posted by Clay Chaszeyka on Nov 13, 2017 12:44:58 PM

The Bat Cave in the town of Truth or Consequences is New Mexico native Ben Hanna’s playground. Having projected some of the routes in the past, Ben sent Helsinki (5.14d), New Mexico’s hardest climb.

 

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Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi's Wind Traverse

Posted by Szu-ting Yi & Dave Anderson on Nov 10, 2017 5:27:21 PM

On September 20, 2017, Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi completed a north to south traverse of the Wind River Range in Wyoming. They also summited 33 of the named peaks along the Continental Divide. The husband and wife team traveled 162 miles and their elevation gain and loss was over 68,000 ft (which is the equivalent of climbing Everest five times, basecamp to summit).

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3 Things To Look For in A Climbing Shoe

Posted by Clay Chaszeyka on Oct 31, 2017 1:41:11 PM

If you're in the market for a new climbing shoe, chances are you're reading this article because you're doing some research before making an investment on a new pair. While reading individual shoe reviews about another climber's test drive is helpful, every shoe, foot, and individual's climbing needs are different. Whether you're new to climbing or frustrated after having made a few bad purchases, this article points you in the right direction of how to choose the best shoe for you. 

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10 Things Kids Can Learn From Climbing

Posted by Clay Chaszeyka on Oct 27, 2017 5:50:57 PM

As a fun competitive exercise, climbing is really popular among adults. But what most people don't realize is that kids can get a lot out of climbing, too! Lots of kids choose to have their birthday party or special events at a climbing gym. While that's great, making  climbing a part of their lifestyle is an even better way to get kids to learn these ten important lessons.

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Tips to Improve Your Dynamic Climbing

Posted by Clay Chaszeyka on Oct 17, 2017 5:22:24 PM

The primary goal of climbing well is using as little energy as possible. Climbing requires different techniques for different situations: whether static or dynamic. Dynamic movements, compared to static, need a quicker, more powerful response to complete the move. Static actions are more straightforward and save more energy, but it's important to complement your static climbing with explosive, dynamic movements.

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