Athletes

The Fast and Dirty: 20-Minute Training for Climbers

Posted on

November 30 2017

It’s not what you do today that counts. It’s what you do all year, day in and day out, that does. Athletically we are the sum of the work we do. As a coach, I often see people come into the gym and destroy themselves in a 2-hour suffer-fest workout, only to not come back in a week or more. Unfortunately, this type of intermittent training has little value concerning performance. I'm not saying it doesn't have any value, but instead, it's an inefficient use of your time.

Athletes, Climbing, Workout

Shoe Review: Altura by Butora

Today there are hundreds of models of climbing shoes to choose from. But if you are looking for a climbing shoe that can smear, edge, climb cracks, and be comfortable enough to wear all day on multi-pitch routes, your options can be counted on one hand. A trad climbing shoe[...]

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A Day in LCC

A crisp morning in Salt Lake City with a projected high of 45 degrees typically means only one thing to climbing locals, a day in LCC. This is the acronym the community has assigned one of the city’s outstanding nearby crags known as Little Cottonwood Canyon. Although it may[...]

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To The Bat Cave

The Bat Cave in the town of Truth or Consequences is New Mexico native Ben Hanna’s playground. Having projected some of the routes in the past, Ben sent Helsinki (5.14d), New Mexico’s hardest climb.

 

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Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi's Wind Traverse

On September 20, 2017, Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi completed a north to south traverse of the Wind River Range in Wyoming. They also summited 33 of the named peaks along the Continental Divide. The husband and wife team traveled 162 miles and their elevation gain and loss[...]

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Nutrient Timing for Climbers

 The nutrition world can be a confusing one, especially when it comes to athletes. It seems everybody has their own philosophy; every sports professional touting the superiority of his or her diet. So where do climbers fit in? We’re not going to eat like triathletes, but what[...]

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No Climbing For Six Months? Time to Write a Book!

In January of 2017, I had an operation to remove several abdominal tumors. The operation was successful and the tumors were non malignant. The downside, for me, was the lengthy recovery period.

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Performance is never out of style #1 STEEP FOOTWORK

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Finding balance in climbing, coaching, and School

Everybody that climbs on a serious level wants his or her life to revolve around climbing. When I’m on a climbing trip, all I think about is what’s around me and how I wouldn’t want it any other way. Eventually, however, the climbing trip ends and reality sets in once again.[...]

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Who Needs Pants?

I am 34 years old, and at this ripe old age, I possess the maturity and decision-making skills of a hyper active toddler. Or so I have been told. So, when I inform you that I have been climbing in Clear Creek Canyon since I was 18 years old, you can only imagine what kind of[...]

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